海洋岛屿 34

Well, we've turned up

and we've seen a couple of absolutely monster barrels.

So we've got what we came for.

And, um...I'm pretty nervous,

because I'm about to swim that huge torpedo camera back out there...

..and it's dangerous-looking!

The big waves had brought surfers from all over the world,

but this was definitely a day for the professionals.

Bali was going to have to use all his surf experience

to get the shots without risking his safety.

Positioning was going to be everything.

This really is a dangerous sport.

Superficially, it looks a bit like skiing down the face of a mountain.

The difference here is that the mountain is actually chasing YOU

and wanting to gobble you up as you go along.

This is what we came for.

Bali got into position for his first shot of the day -

a ten-foot barrel wave. 10

Capturing a shot like this leaves little margin for error,as Bali discovered.

I tried to hold on as long as I could

and it sucked me over the falls afterwards.

This thing is so heavy, I was in the foam, inside, trying to get up.

My right leg cramped and I couldn't get up for ages.

I was just lucky there wasn't really much behind it,

or I'd still be in there trying to get out.